{"id":6354,"date":"2025-05-29T21:00:07","date_gmt":"2025-05-29T12:00:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/the-world-star.com\/?p=6354"},"modified":"2026-11-11T14:38:53","modified_gmt":"2026-11-11T05:38:53","slug":"diy-crankbait-prototype-1-for-information-gathering","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/the-world-star.com\/en\/fisshing_siries\/handmadelure\/diy-crankbait-prototype-1-for-information-gathering-6354\/","title":{"rendered":"DIY Crankbait: Prototype #1 for Information Gathering"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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I always feel like crankbaits are the easiest to catch fish with, so I wanted to add a crankbait to my lineup of handmade lures. It had been in the planning stage, but since the peak season is about to end, I finally started making it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The material is leftover wood from my son's school craft project. For certain reasons, it has a 3-layer structure. The ultimate goal of this prototype is to check the shape and resulting action, and to use it as a master for making a mold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I roughly carved it down. This angle actually gives it a pretty nice shape. However, since I'm aiming for a frog-like design, it's quite flat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The reason for the 3-layer sandwich structure is to make the middle piece easier to carve out. The purpose is for a weight-transfer system. The wood on both outer sides could be a bit thinner, but since I just used whatever material was available, it ended up a little thick.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I roughly carved out the space where the weight moves using a knife and smoothed it with a file. This 3-layer structure was chosen to make this process easier. I also anticipate that this 3-part split will make mass production with UV resin easier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This is what it looks like with just one side attached. It seems like it's going to work well. For the weights, I went with one larger weight than this, plus two tiny weights for sound. If you put multiple large weights, they might jam, ruin the stability, and likely cause a backlash on the cast.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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To check its performance, I sealed it with plastic model masking material during assembly so that water wouldn't leak inside when casting and swimming it. This is just temporary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It ended up with a very vivid color scheme. The black part is primer, used as a temporary waterproof coating.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I made the lip by cutting and bending a piece of aluminum. The left and right tips of the lip are bent down slightly, and the middle is bent up a little.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the line tie eye, there isn't enough space to insert a screw eye because of the internal weight-transfer system. So, for now, I modified the raised part of the lip to attach a snap ring. The aluminum lip itself is secured with wood screws, but since that's also quite shallow, I glued it in place using green masking putty, which also acts as an adhesive. In the end, I might make this part using glue or UV resin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For this time, as long as it doesn't fall apart while reeling, I'll call it a success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I brought it to the fishing spot to see if it would swim properly. Surprisingly, on the very first try without any adjustments, it swam correctly. I was imagining the worst-case scenario where the action would completely break down and I'd have to start over from scratch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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