24 Tatula Full Bearing Upgrade & Spool Bearing Downsizing Part 1: Degreasing

I recently bought a 24 Tatula and was using it right out of the box, but honestly, the spool rotation isn't that great. My fully tuned older Tatula casts way further. I tried degreasing the spool bearing, but I couldn't figure out how to remove the shield, so I couldn't get the grease out properly.

So, I'm going to replace the bearings, and for this time, I'm taking on a new challenge: downsizing the spool bearings. Smaller diameter bearings reportedly have less rotational friction and cast further. The width will also be narrower, but since there won't be that much load on it, it should be fine.

As a bonus, I'll also be adding bearings as part of the standard tuning.

These are the bearings and bushings I bought. For the classic Tatula bearing upgrade, I'm using four 740ZZ bearings. I'll increase the number of bearings in the handle from one to two on each side. Though not shown here, shims (5mm outer diameter - 4mm inner diameter) are also required. I'm also replacing the bushings on both ends of the level winder with bearings. These four locations use the 740ZZ. Since these aren't areas you open up very often, shielded ZZ bearings are the way to go.

As for the new challenge this time—the bearings on both ends of the spool—the stock ones are a 1030ZZ on one side and an 830ZZ on the other. By stacking two bearings together, I'm creating a smaller diameter bearing setup. For the larger side, a 1060 and a 630 combination works perfectly as off-the-shelf bearings. The outer and inner diameters match up cleanly. The 1060 is 3mm wide, and the 630 is 2.5mm wide. The original 1030 is 4mm wide, so the width becomes slightly smaller, but having less contact surface will reduce resistance and improve performance.

Now for the smaller 830 side on the opposite end. Since there wasn't a ready-made combination of bearings that fit perfectly, I looked for a collar and found the exact right one. The outer diameter is 8mm and the inner diameter is 6mm. Combining this with a 630 bearing should work out.

First, I'll remove the grease from the bearings used in this spool.

To remove the shields from these bearings, you take out the tiny C-shaped retaining ring at the edge of the shield. I struggled and managed to pull it out using a sewing needle and a straight pin. The 630ZZ was so tiny that it was quite a struggle.

Commercial bearings are packed with grease to prevent complaints about rusting. Also, since most people don't perform maintenance, grease is used so they last about 10 years.  Since this is for the spool, you want as little resistance as possible, and since oil can be easily injected afterward, I'm removing the grease. This is definitely for people who can keep up with regular maintenance.

I've done this many times before: I put the disassembled bearings into an empty plastic model paint jar and spray parts cleaner all over them.

Looking from the back, you can see the grease coming out. I initially tried to degrease the stock bearings too, but I couldn't figure out how to remove the shields, so most of the grease didn't come out. I could have just bought bearings of the same size or used unshielded ones, but this time I decided to take the plunge and try the double-bearing setup.

I'll let them sit in the container overnight to remove the grease. Finally, I'll discard the parts cleaner liquid, spray them once more in the jar with parts cleaner, wipe away any residue with Kimwipes, and then inject oil to finish the process.

The rest of the disassembly and replacement work will be in the next article.